I have seen many world-famous churches with breathtaking decor on my travels – and yet there is none I like more than Tampere Catethdral.

When painting the church in 1904-07, Hugo Simberg (who just happens to be my favourite artist) broke all the norms. He painted a snake (the most evil of creatures) eating an apple in a prime spot on the ceiling, roses to symbolize earthly love, and – shock horror- 12 naked small boys (the apostles?) carrying the “Garland of Life”.

None of which you would call typical for its time.

My favourites, though, are the two more famous works on the walls: The Wounded Angel, lovingly carried by two peasant boys (note the factories in the background, placing the scene firmly in the industrial Tampere), and the Garden of Death. In the latter, the creatures of Death tenderly care for the delicate flowers, the souls of the departed.

This is so much more approachable and warm than the massive cathedrals in Europe built to inspire awe. Fits my small-scale view of life much better.